“Earl’s Super Salmon - Smoky Edition”
“Does it spark joy, Earl? Yes, Earl. Now, I do not have to throw it away.” [Photo Credit: Alex Paternostro]
by Alex and Seth Paternostro
January 24, 2022
Earl was buying salmon at Shepherd’s Market, the local grocer with that motto you could never forget. He chuckled at the clever wordplay, then continued with his mission, standing in line before moving forward.
“Hi, Earl,” the woman manning the seafood counter said with a smile.
“Howdy, young counter lady, I am back. Yes, I want that one,” he said and pointed at a thick, fresh hunk of salmon.
“Okay!”
She grabbed the filet, weighed it atop a thin sheet of paper, then turned around to tie up the order with a whip of braided ginger.
“You must have something special in mind for this beauty.”
As was habit, Earl glanced at the neat row of pre-packaged trimmings at the base of the case, blinked, and saw the woman’s apron lengthen, its fabric thicken and darken into rubber. The country girl had traded in her corn and dresses for yellow gloves. By a twist of fate, the family barn had burned its last, and the crops failed once more. But no matter, for this lass was to seek another life…At sea! Aboard an old fishing vessel that dipped beneath bright clouds, she rocked on the open water. Finally, she was home.
That first dawn she walked to the docks, rough and burly fishermen looked at her askance. The smallest and crookedest among them whistled and laughed as she strode past their piles of rope and broken crates. But as she crunched bottles and clam shells under bare feet, one bearded and gentle captain vowed to take her aboard his never-moored vessel. With new boots and stubby knife, she went to work on Bob’s Red Boat.
The team grumbled as they cast nets against stone cold water, but soon lugged each heavy catch onto the bumpy deck, together. The wind lashed her rosy cheeks, gulls dotted the ship, and brackish water doused the captain’s pipe.
She felt alive!
“Something wonderful,” Earl replied, dreamily.
“Well, here you go,” she said, handing over his neatly folded fish.
“Can I get you anything else?”
“No. That is all. I thank you and will return soon.”
Serves 8
Total time
2-3 days
Equipment:
needle-nose pliers, digital scale, medium baking dish, medium tray, plastic wrap, cans or weights, charcoal grill, small bowl, applewood chips, hardwood briquettes, lighter fluid, tongs, stiff piece of cardboard, aluminum foil, digital thermometer, oven mitts
Tableware:
plates and utensils
Ingredients
125 grams white sugar
180 grams dark brown sugar
175 grams kosher salt
1 large skin-on salmon filet, about 3 lbs
Instructions
(2 Days Prior to Smoking)
Set out all ingredients, along with the needle-nose pliers, digital scale, medium baking dish, medium tray, plastic wrap, aluminum foil, and cans or weights.
Combine the salt and sugars, then pour half of this mixture into the baking dish.
Remove any pin bones, and place the filet on top.
Rub the remaining curing mix over the fish.
Cover tightly with plastic wrap and aluminum foil.
Place the medium tray on top of the salmon, and weigh it down evenly with the cans.
Refrigerate the salmon and weights for about 24 hours. Flip over the fish, redistribute the brine, replace the weights, and refrigerate.
Check on the salmon after 24 hours. If the flesh is still soft when pressed, then flip, and repeat the weighting process for another 12 hours, or until firm.
(Smoking Day)
When firm, rinse the fish filet under running water to remove excess brine.
Fill a bowl with water, and soak a handful of applewood chips.
Make a small pile of briquettes on the right side of your grill. Spray with a small amount of lighter fluid, ignite, and let burn until the flames subside. Fan until very hot and covered with ash.
Remove the applewood chips from their bath, and wrap in a piece of aluminum foil, leaving a hole for smoke to escape.
Place the package over the coals with its opening on top, and wait until it starts smoking.
Set the grate on the grill, and place the salmon on the left so that it is not directly over the heat.
Cover the grill, and adjust the vents so that air flows from the smoke side to the salmon side. The temperature gauge should read 225-250°F.
Cook for about 45 minutes, or until the internal temperature of the salmon registers 125°F for a softer center or 135°F for solid flakes.
Let cool fully, then eat it, like Earl.
Notes: The curing ratios are derived from Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking, and Curing (2005) by Michael Ruhlman and Brian Polycn. The amount of time the salmon should remain in the brine varies depending on its thickness, so check for firmness to gauge when it is ready to smoke.
Earl had planned on making an E, but the P just made more sense. [Photo Credit: Alex Paternostro]
NUTRITION FACTS:
Calories 615 Total Fat 27g (35%) Saturated Fat 4.2g (21%) Cholesterol 234mg (78%) Sodium 367mg (16%) Total Carbohydrate 3g (1%) Dietary Fiber 0g (0%) Total Sugars 3g Protein 84.3g Vitamin D 0mcg (0%) Calcium 51mg (4%) Iron 3mg (19%) Potassium 2083mg (44%) - Note: Please read our Nutrition Disclaimer.
Seth Paternostro is a writer and recipe developer based in Chicago. He is a co-founder of Our American Cuisine and graduated summa cum laude from Princeton University with an A.B. in East Asian Studies. You can learn more about him here.
Alex Paternostro is a writer and food photographer based in Chicago. He is a co-founder of Our American Cuisine and graduated with honors in English from Princeton University. You can learn more about him here.
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